Phew !

Sunday February 26

What a scorcher. Starting with a 6 a.m. breakfast of toast  - the resort doesn’t start serving until 7 - we set off for Mae Ping National Park. 

Neil estmated a 30-40 minutes drive, it was an hour or more before the entry fee was paid and we started birding.

A tarmac road, mostly flat, edged with dry forest beginning to flower pre the wet season. Large and small brown leaves falling intermittently, attracting attention. 

We’d been warned that the birds would be sparse in number but should be good quality. I managed an hour’s walk before retreating to the van. Choom continued to follow the group slowly, stopping when Neil found a good bird.
We added Drongo Cuckoo, Greater and Common Flameback, Grey-headed Pygmy Woodpecker, excellent views after several flying missiles, of Grey-headed Parakeets, the male feeding the female. Best for me was a group of about 6 Black-headed Woodpeckers. I saw three at least in flight and then, two perched on a tree trunk.  Four Shikras in flight - I spotted the first one whilst coffee was being made and a Chestnut-headed Prinia. The chocolate brownies were worth eating.
Much traffic on the narrow road, all headed for the campsite, as were we. It was steaming hot by 11.30, when we de-bussed and, sat under an awning to have an early lunch of cheese sandwiches. Somewhere in the 30Cs. A large clearing with some bungalows,  scattered camouflage tents and many, mainly youngsters, packing up to leave.
Both Blue-winged and Golden-fronted Leafbirds and the ubiquitous Black-crested Bulbuls
in a large, bright green leafed tree, kept us entertained. Neil and the Bees went for a walk around the site, Choom slept on a bench. A wave from Neil alerted us to two Red-wattled Lapwings at the far end of the clearing. Another call from him took Pam and I beyond the toilet block to see an Asian Emerald Cuckoo - already seen by J and D.
Soooo hot, time to drive slowly back. Apart from a short stop at a waterfall, it was deemed too hot to continue birding, we have a couple of hours off before lists and dinner.

Last of the Cold

Saturday February 25

Not unhappy to be leaving Mr Deong’s. Lovely people and location, just too uncomfortable. Rock hard and very  low beds, an extremely ricketty floor in the eating area, cool water, no comforts at all. It looks delapidated and very messy, especially the entrance area where all the washing up etc takes place. Neil uses it because it saves 40 mins drive every day to get into the park. Pen takes charge of the meals, so they were good.
Before leaving and after breakfast at 6.15, we birded the trail where Pam and I had sat for ages on Thursday. We again started off sitting at the start of the steep uphill trail, whilst runners/joggers/walkers taking part in an ‘extreme marathon’ puffed past on the tarmac road. Uphill all the way to the summit.
Failing to get the diminutive Pygmy Wren-Babbler to put in an appearance, Neil and the Bees set off up the hill. They were obviously seeing birds at the first corner, which piqued our interest. When we were still so cold and had our fill of watching a pair of Grey-chinned Niltavas (still no good photo, they’re never still), we up stooled and walked the hill to the first bend, which was in the sun. 

Female Grey-chinned Niltava

Here we saw, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Silver-eared Mesia, Spectacled Barwing, Black-eared  Shrike-babbler - and heard lots of unidentified song and calls.
Very frustrating.
Soon, the rising sun was dazzling, making it difficult to see. We returned downhill where, very quickly Neil joined us. He then took us further up the track where we added Golden Babbler, Streaked Babbler, Yellow-browed and Davison’s Warblers. When the Bees returned, we walked back to the road to await Choom’s arrival at 10.00.
Coffee at Mr Deong’s, finish packing and on the road by eleven. A couple of pretty fruitless stops on the way. An Oriental Honey Buzzard seen from the van, Saturday hordes at the waterfall and a general doze before lunch early afternoon. Pam and I had noodle soup, the Bees a Chicken Noodle curry.
Neil has never used this resort before, it’s very new and very green. Bungalows around the main building, most of them in three shades of discordant green, ours included. Immediate impression on being shown inside was of appreciation. 

Large, one double and one single bed, plenty of storage space and a good looking bathroom. The balcony is at the back, overlooking a densely treed orchard. Shame there are no chairs ! Just the one small one in the room too. 

Neil told us that it’s the cheapest accommodation on the trip. Amazing. We are becoming accustomed to cold showers, no hangars nor bedside tables, few - if any - chairs.

Our view - dining and reception area.

Afternoon off ! Much appreciated. We had a hot and comfortable shower, read, drank coffee and I got frustrated by the poor WiFi. It keeps cutting out,  after taking an age to load anything. Ah well........

A large flock of Asian Openbill Storks circling overhead whilst we sat outside in the shade was unexpected.

A Common Myna, common but amusing.

 
We are convening at 6 to go out for supper in this one long street town.
We didn't find an open restaurant for ages, we cruised the area until one showed lights.

Neil and tthe Bees choosing supper

  No list either - to-morrow ?

Butterflies and a Forktail

Friday February 24

After a good night's sleep - amazing considering the hardness of the beds - it was another cold start. Gloves, vest, sweater and coat. By lunchtime , it's extremely hot. 

Breakfast was chosen last night, I had fried eggs, bacon, toast and marmalade. The day started at the checkpoint where Pam and I spent some time yesterday. Neil et al walked the road for an hour before doing the Jeep Trail. Much more activity than yesterday. Dayglow orange Grey-chinned Minivet flicked about in branches high above, Mountain Tailorbird and Yellow-throated Barbet added to the chorus. 

Whilst they did the Jeep Trail, we saw an accipiter species, probably a Besra. Slim and small, very pale with a longish stripy tail.

We were well occupied trying to photograph any of the restless butterflies flitting about. I managed one species which immediately closed its wings on landing.

When the hot and tired troupe returned, having had to work very hard for not a lot, the next target was a Forktail which all of us wanted to see. 

Neil immediately found a White-crowned Forktail, which hid from us behind a tangle of branches. All had tickable - if frustratingly partial - views. Moving on to another spot, we again tried butterfly photography whilst Bees and Neil made a putative search for another species.

Banded Marquis

Common Sailor

Pam and I had omelettes for lunch, the others chips and spring rolls , watermelon and delicious, local finger bananas for all.

Pen accompanied Jacquie to the market stalls a 100 metres down the road. Both came back with nuts and Cape Gooseberries - Neil said that Pen would come back with food - a T shirt for Neil and one for Rico.

We decided to spend the afternoon here, my knees are pretty dire, hence the prompt Blog.
The very high step into the minibus is taxing . I asked for a portable step before I came - and continue to do so. As yet, one hasn't materialised.

Doi Inthanon

Thursday February 23

Apart from the fact that I was freezing cold, until I put a sweater on, the night passed reasonably quickly. Breakfast at 6.15 where the Bees recounted the tale of a giant velvet-legged spider they'd trapped in their room last night. Not nice when it's over your bed !

Very cold this morning. Vest, thick shirt, sweater and my waterproof jacket for me. Breakfast was eggs, toast, a small pink sausage (ribald remarks), a slice of processed meat and two slices of tomato.

Away by 7 a.m. for one of Choom's roars up the mountain. No hills in Bangkok. We stopped at a footpath entry  where we decided not to walk uphill. Choom then dropped us off at the first checkpoint, where we sat in very cold shade. The best sighting was of a Black Baza gliding through. Several other very frustrating  glimpses of flying birds and one beautiful day-flying moth which settled on a butter-yellow parked car, allowing a photograph.

Choom was phoned to return to the pathway, where Neil beckoned us out. We descended a short way to view a clearing where we saw several new birds, including this distant Golden-throated Barbet, busy excavating a nesthole in a dead tree. Pam's photo is better than mine.

Destination Doi Inthanon summit, the tallest mountain in Thailand, with masses of tourists to enjoy it. It's over 3,000 metres in height. After a cup of milky coffee (yuk), ( Neil bought the same for all, which only suited J).  he said that it was worth pushing ourselves for the steps  descent to the boardwalk, as there were birds here we would not see elsewhere. It wasn't long before he - and I - changed our minds. The steps were steep and extensive down into a valley. The descent was bad enough......

Pam and I stayed in a raised seating area seeing... not a lot. Neil returned a short while before the others and identified some birds for us. Thank you, efforts much appreciated. Their birding below had been hampered by the noisy tourists, the desired Crake had not been seen..
I did have a go at catching a shot of a very small and active Davison's Leaf Warbler flitting in the branches above us. It's a split from White-tailed Leaf Warbler. What else have we missed ? I feel totally de-skilled without sound recognition. That's what the guide is for and we are often without one - as the fit and active are the primary target. We should have stayed at home, as we often mooted. It was objected to, vehemently, I should have been stronger !

After a lunch of fried noodles back at Mr D's, Pam and I  had an hour and a half off during which I downloaded photos and finished writing yesterday's Blog. Pam downloaded 326 photos and found that none of her Silver Temple pics were on the card.  Very disappointing.
Neil and the Bees went back up to the boardwalk for a quieter time, sending Choom back for us at 4 p.m. We then spent some time birding the Checkpoint area again, with a couple of roadside stops on the way back down. Choom still has a very interesting technique for driving downhill.........
Neil closed our windows to-night, we should be warmer, no billowing curtains making me shiver.
 


 

A Day of Driving

Wednesday February 23

No WiFi connection last night. It's 6 a.m. on the 24th at Mr Deang's, high up the mountain of Doi Inthanon . Breakfast is due in 10 minutes.......Despite its rather rural appearance and facilities, Neil stays here as it avoids a 40 minute morning drive-in from the nearest resort.

Pam and I didn't go out for the pre breakfast walk yesterday. We had some extra sleep. I photographed the female Purple Sunbird building her nest and Pam read.

After another fresh bread and English breakfast, J and Pam photographed some of the orchids and flowering shrubs at this lovely resort, before we set off for a full day's driving to Mr Dheong's. All the flower photos are Pam's.

The break for lunch was beside a tilapia fishery with a parallel lake, where Neil found a Green Peafowl. Distant and hidden by grass, it showed well enough in the scope.

The journey was broken by a visit to the White Temple in Chiang Rai. The other women all went to photograph. I viewed from afar. A crystal embedded vision of gleaming silver, very extensive too. (Pam was upset at apparently losing all her temple photos. All is well, when we got home, she found them amongst the 1,000+ she had to sort.)

The architect is still working on the building, subsidised by selling tiles etc to the public.

We'd been warned that Mr Dheong's is basic and it is. Friendly welcome, quick baggage dump and supper followed by a chat before sorting our freezing cold room. Two beds, loads of extra blankets, two chairs, a fan and a small folding table. 

A newly installed flush loo, much to Pen's delight - and ours. 

Nowhere to store anything! What a mess.

The beds are famously hard, breeze blocks are softer according to Neil. Yes, they are very hard, a wafer thin mattress on a low concrete base. 
Supper was Thai green curry, cooked by Pen. I enjoyed it. Still very early so we sat and chatted for a while  before braving the legendary beds and a very breezy bedroom. All the windows behind the beds were open, the beds seemed immoveable.

Home of the Dragonlady

Tuesday February 21

Pam and I had an active night.......we took Ferusamide for our travel swollen legs and had to visit the loo frequently - it's a water releasing drug !

Our bungalows are very nice and all face the lake, the Bees have one on the front row overlooking the quiet road and lake, ours is in the row behind as we needed single beds. 

The owner is a formidable Thai. Not in stature but, in demeanour and attitude. Bossy as hell, domineering and forgetful. We couldn't have dinner here last night because her cat had gone missing. She then got breakfast wrong, firstly telling Neil last night that it would be a buffet and then, when we arrived to eat at 10.30 after our drive, as arranged, she said he'd ordered 3 full English and pancakes for the others ???

In the van at 6.30 a.m. for a drive around the lake, frequent stops for sitting and scanning, Very enjoyable. Two Grey-headed Lapwing amongst the Black-winged Stilts were new for the trip.
Best for me were at least 5 Oriental Honey Buzzards, two sitting and,  three of the five then flying around. Apologies for the poor, heavily cropped photos - rather distant for my lens.

We also had Green-billed Malkoha, Burmese Shrike  and Racquet-tailed Tree-Pie .

Back for the infamous and excellent English breakfast at 10.30. Sausage (proper stuff), fried egg, tomato, mushroom, bacon and HOME-MADE, still warm and floppy, BREAD. Excellent local coffee and fresh fruit from the garden.

We then had a blessed off time until 3 p.m. Downloading pictures, photographing the migrant dragonflies (me, totally futile), reading. Pam had a nap and rested her legs after watching the Purple Sunbird build her nest in the climber beside our balcony. 

This Heliconia is in full flower at the back of the Bees' bungalow.

The late afternoon session was a tremendous experience. Half an hour's drive through rubber, pineapple and teak plantations, reaching a temple and  some lakes at Wat Bamakno. Choom drove the minibus down the hill and along a track as far as the overlook point for the harrier roost. Pam, Jax and I stayed in the van,  us until 5.00 p.m.  when the first of the harriers might appear.

A magical one and a half hours later, we'd counted (Neil and David) 159  Pied Harrier and 55 Eastern Marsh Harriers, flying in from all directions. At one time, I had 6 awesome male Pied in my bins at once. My favourite Harrier without doubt, first seen in China. So handsome, as are the male Eastern Marsh. A lifetime experience. This is said to be the world's largest harrier roost. Too distant and then, poor light, for photography.
Also infamous for biting insects, stealth bombers.

Pintailed Snipe, Striated Grassbird, Brown Shrike and Stejneger's Stonechat filled the spaces during the first hour before they started to pour in.

Brown Shrike - if you can find it.

 A very good supper at 7 ish, Massaman Curry, heart-shape moulded brown rice and stir-fry veg, followed by Starfruit and Guava from the garden. 

All accompanied by the too frequent and over zealous presence of Dragonlady.

 

Moving Day

Monday February 20

Luxury, breakfast at 8. Fried eggs, sausage, toast, bacon and a large pile of lettuce. They grow it in the large greenhouse next to the restaurant. 

9.00 departure for a 2  hour drive to  Mai Sai, where Neil crossed into Burma and got his visa stamped before returning. It only took less than ten minutes, he was back before the shoppers returned.

Pen, Jax and Pam went shopping. J got several things for her family, Pam bought a lovely, chunky silver bracelet for herself and, a pair of jade earrings for me. Pen was a hard bargainer throughout.

This was the centre of the Golden Triangle. It is now a tourist centre rather than opium growing. This large Buddha is small compared with others we saw in the middle of towns, looming way above the houses.

Tourism is more profitable and less work. Thai are not allowed to gamble, they cross to Laos to do so.
Lunch was at a roadside restaurant looking across a tributary to Burma, then the Mekong and Laos. All three countries very close indeed at this point. There was talk of setting up a trade agreement but the Thais are dragging their heels. Thexit? 

A host of  of small red dragonflies over the river,  on their migration to Africa, Amur Falcons follow them. Meals in flight.

Neil had never stayed at our Chiang Sean lakeside resort before, it had been recommended to him.  Lovely bungalows set in beautiful grounds.

Our view

Our bungalow

 Very funny people. An aging British hippy man and a stick thin, wrung out, bag of neuroses I christened Dragonlady. No food here after all to-night, her cat is missing. She personally showed us our room, leaving no socket/bed/ furnishings/bathroom/chair undiscovered. We eventually got rid of her and spent an hour in our rooms. Hot and muggy here, thank goodness for aircon.

The afternoon plans were changed. A 1 hour boat ride on the lake was available immediately or, not at all. All the boatmen are off on some sort of training meet to-morrow.
Plenty of hands on standby in case I coudn't get on the boat. It was easily accomplished if somewhat  rocketty.
So pleasant, riding along with a breeze to temper the heat. I love boat rides.
Lesser Whistling Ducks in large noisy rafts, easily disturbed into whistling flight, 5 Mandarin Ducks, the only place they can be seen. A few Garganey, Pintail, Coot,  Ferruginous Ducks, Grey-headed Swamphen and  Egrets, inc Intermediate. Many Little Grebes, Purple Heron, and a few Spot-billed Ducks. Viewing was difficult against the setting sun.
I followed an Osprey coming in to land, trying to hold my camera steady in a moving boat and with vertigo from my middle-ear infection

Spot-billed Ducks in flight

Purple Heron

A local fisherman, fully protected against the sun

Clumps of the alien Water Hyacinth formed floating islands. Easy to see why it spreads so fast.

We stayed on the banks until a lovely sunset. Pam's photos.

Lineated and Coppersmith Barbet clunked away, such a boring and repetitive call for  beautiful birds. Chestnut-tailed Starlings showed briefly, Pheasant- tailed Jacana, Great Coucal, Asian Koel,  the first of hundreds of Black-winged Stilts, both Smyrna and Common Kingfisher were added to the growing list.

Dinner to-night was at a  riverside restaurant and was the  best so far. I wish I could remember what it was! We are still sticking to Thai food, I even ate my noodles with chopsticks at lunchtime. Pen sorts everything as few Thais speak any English at all. I expect that they do in the tourist areas.

 

Doi Lang Revisited

Sunday February 19

A Praying Mantis appeared at the breakfast table this morning.

The same mountain climb as yesterday, with a different plan and targets to-day. Once we leave Feng behind us, we drive through an agricultural area. Mainly Oranges, planted very neatly on steep slopes, the Burmese border viewable on one side of the road. Neil met a friend last night who gave him some tips for to-day, these proved to be very productive.
Leaving the valley behind us, it was time to look for a clump of flowering Bamboo, the favourite food of Pin-tailed Parrotfinch. Bingo, Neil soon succeeded in finding both the flowering bamboo and a flock of Parrotfinch. He's a good birder.
Setting up the stools well clear of the feeding log, we sat and waited for the Ultramarine Flycatcher to appear for breakfast. A Blue Rock Thrush saw off a Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler, 

Blue Rock-thrush

we waited patiently... then a Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, on a high branch, silhouetted against the light. 

A last helping of food was scattered, the very small Ultramarine Flycatcher landed on a high branch before making a fast visit to the feeding station. Tick

Chestnut-vented Nuthatch

Onwards to the checkpoint, where the cars have to be left. Another stake-out - and Pam found the bird - a male Hodgson's Frogmouth sat on its nest. The female takes over at night.
The last stake-out was beyond the checkpoint barrier and marked by a posse of photographers. It is the weekend. The  Black-throated Tits are nesting here, a really good bird to see. Tiny, colourful and restricted to a minute part of far north Thailand, we had good views in the tree overhead before being directed to lunch.

Lunch was a sandwich  below  the checkpoint. Pam and I stayed whilst the Bees and Neil went back up the road past the checkpoint. Whilst they were away, we saw a Chestnut-vented Nuthatch working its way down a mossy tree trunk. A Hill Prinia kept appearing low in the bushes along the road.
Another hint from Neil's Thai friend saw us look, successfully, for the tiny Fire Finches  at a flowering bamboo down the road.

After a short rest at our resort, we drove to a rice paddy and farming area to overlook a reedy  roosting site. Dried paddy in front, reeds beyond and to the right, wet paddies in the distance. The latter were being worked, many Swallows feeding on the disturbed insects. As were Oriental and Small Pratincoles. Siberian Rubythroat, Bluethroat, Black-collared Startlings, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers. Scaly-breasted Munia kept us pleasantly occupied until the first of the Yellow-breasted Buntings flew in, to congregate in the reedbed. Finding two Black-headed Buntings amongst the noisy, ever moving throng, was eventually achieved by all.
We were very late back and out to the Karaoke bar again. No Cow Pat for me, fish sauce must have been added as I had swollen eyes and face from last night's meal. At least it proves that I REALLY am allergic to fish ! I have anti histamine tablets........
B nuisance.