Saturday March 4
I don't know what I expected.....but it wasn't this morning's experience. Leaving the resort at 6.35 after a 6.00 breakfast (Choom kept us waiting as he hadn't finished his meal), we drove past seemingly endless rice paddies, on both sides of the road. Eventually, we turned off on one track/bund and drove as far as where tyres across the road forbade entry. There ensued a longish trudge of about half a mile, along an earth track, past where the workers were raking and piling the salt crystals into cone-shaped heaps. Back- breaking work but comparatively cool as the sun rose.
Flocks of waders swirled and landed way out of sight, small nearer groups contained Great Knot, Black-winged Stilts and Red- necked Stints. On we went until asked to wait whilst Neil went on to ascertain whether - or not - the two birders up ahead had got the sandpiper. YES.
Neil came dashing back to help with carrying stools. I had my scope on my back for once.
By the time we got there, which included climbing up a small bund after crossing a pipe, the birds had flown and the sandpiper lost.
When the other two birders left, we took their place on the other side of the ramshackle shed. Neil re-found the bird in his scope, I quickly ascertained the SPOONBILLED SANDPIPER in the flock, stepped aside for Pam and her bins knocked the scope, which wasn't locked in place. Agitation time for everyone else. Quiet jubilation for me.
It wasn't long before Neil found the bird again, asleep this time but conveniently, near a pipe for placement. You may - try hard - be able to make out the pipe on the left of the sandy bank.The Spoonie is the tiny blob to the left of it !!!
David was trying to find the very distant bird in J's scope Following Neil's instructions, I found it in mine and left it for Pam and J.
What happened next was astonishing. In its rudeness and cheek. Two of the German birders who had arrived with another guide, left their group and tried to muscle in on our scopes. Without speaking at all. Pam had to push her way in to look through OUR scope.
What a nerve. Several loud cries of 'Excuse me' later from the ever polite Brits, they moved away. After Neil had told their leader where to see the bird.
I left J to use my scope and took a welcome rest on a stool.
So many thousands of waders of 20+ species. Black-winged Stilts are everywhere, I still love them. So elegant despite their out of proportion, bubble-gum pink, stilt-like legs.
Rakes down time.
Exchanged for panniers.
On the return journey, the same pittance-paid workers were scooping the cones of salt into two shallow basket panniers, supported across the back of the neck by a pole. Heaved into place, they slowly gathered momentum before using said momentum to walk, bent over but quite quickly, to empty their contents onto blue tarpaulins. Feet clad in socks, some covered in plastic bags, what must those abrasive salt crystals do to their skin. It's hardly better than slave labour.
The salt was then tipped onto large blue tarpaulins before being loaded onto a lorry. very labour intensive but more money spread around.
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Neil carrying our stools towards the salt mountain |
Rollers were being used on some of the pans. It drives the water to the surface, compacting the salt, so that more sea water can be added in order to enhance the crop.
Now very hot indeed, the sun blazing from the glittering salt, I was pleased to get back in the air-con van and drive back to the resort for lunch.
Not yet. A diversion to a rubbish dump and more paddies first. The Red Avadavat was not found but Asian Dowitchers were. I'm still convinced that we saw them in China.........
At 12.30, a very tasty fried noodle lunch before leaving for the boatyard where we were due to take a boat out to a sandspit where two special Plovers can be seen. As we turned off onto a narrow track alongside the moored boats, my heart sank. The place was totally shambolic, ricketty, uneven planks, big drops down to the boats. Neil had given the boatman the option to choose the time. He'd chosen low tide !!
I took one look before deciding that I might be able to get in but, no way would I be able to get out at the end of the ride - unless there was a crane handy.
The Bees and Neil set off, Choom left with instructions to take us round the Royal Project. We were happy with that.
The Project is where different rice is tried out and there are many lagoons with driveable roads in between. Plenty of water birds too. Except........Pam got crosser and crosser with Choom. He doesn't speak English but he does understand 'stop' and took no notice. He stopped for Water Monitors but not where there were birds. I tried over and over again. He'd stop occasionally, I'd put my camera out of the open door and he'd drive on. Very frustrating. Eventually I gave up and sat back for the ride.
He then parked the van, behind a placard in the car park, for 15 minutes.
Neil had guesstimated a 2.30 return. Choom parked up at the boatyard and there we sat for an hour and twenty minutes. Pam was steaming and I couldn't talk her down. Neither did she hide it......
The group had a much longer walk to see the plovers, than in Neil's previous experience, hence the late return. I guess he was cross but, why with us? Calling us Muppets for sitting where Choom had parked us was not acceptable. I expect he was frustrated with 'running two trips'. He wasn't. it was ONE very energetic and arduous one for two active birders and we hangers-on to fit in very occasionally. I had made my lack of mobility absolutely clear to all before coming. Perhaps no-one believed me, they certainly didn't with the request to provide steps.
I was very disappointed to miss the plovers but made the right choice for me. The only regret is not seeing the Chinese Egret they had on the journey back. D did say that it was distant and a brief view, still a wanted tick.
The afternoon finished with a return to the Royal Project when Neil could give understandable instructions - and Choom took notice.
Many more birds than earlier and Neil made sure I got some photographs in the odd evening light.
Is one of these Cormorants dead?
Javan Pond Heron was a welcome addition to the list. Pam had a massive Water Monitor on her side of the van. Mine was smaller and partially hidden.
Marsh Sandpiper can lay claims to being my favourite wader. Despite the light........

Interesting to see Common Sandpiper in this plumage.
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Chinese Pond Heron with food |
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Chinese Pond Heron coming into breeding plumage |
Delicious evening meal, a pork dish and another of chicken and cashews + rice and stir-fry veg. Superb mango for dessert, the ones Pen bought roadside a couple of days ago.