Grand Old Duke of York

Saturday February 18

Another 6.30 departure, for Doi Lang, a National Park high in the mountains, overlooking Burma. It took over an hour to climb up, Choom is a very average driver, he uses the wrong gear and kangaroos the brakes on steep climbs and descents - of which there were many. 

As we reached the top, we saw 4 camo hides placed across the road - which is a dead end - big lenses sticking out pointing at a Mountain Bamboo Partridge. After viewing the bird, we drove through the gap which had been left, seeing another 3 Partridges later on.

 We spent the morning marching up and down the hill - slowly - stopping at feeding stations. The latter were small opened out areas off the road, the first one opposite a big sign which forbade the feeding of mealworms, the playing of tape lures and nest photography.

Logs and stones had been strategically placed, our stools were placed at the viewing point, mealworms sprinkled and .... we waited. This is the largest area, where a Rubythroat should have appeared !.

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler

White-browed Laughingthrush

Hill Blue Flycatcher

Hill Blue Flycatcher

Slaty-blue Flycatcher

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers

This Spot-breasted Parrotbill made a very welcome addition to the scene and list. Delightful bird.

Spot-breasted Parrotbill

This was the pattern of the day, moving from one feeding area to another - then back again. As is becoming normal, Neil and the Bees periodically  left us to take a walk or two, seeing many more birds than us geriatrics. 
At one point my lifelong 'want' - since Richardson's bird book was isssued and I saw its painting - Siberian Rubythroat, showed very well in a sunlit area at the bottom of a steep slope. No thanks was my sensible response, after I'd tried the first bit. The Bees did kindly offer to get me down - later agreeing that I couldn't have got back up ! . 
Driving on to another area, a Siberian Rubythroat appeared as soon as the minibus stopped. It was very shaded but I managed a few photos.

We drove as far as the first checkpoint before the Burmese border, not exactly heavily guarded. There were several Japanese photographers wandering about beyond the checkpoint. No-one would tell Neil why they were there.......... 

The Ultramarine Flycatcher feeding station was empty of birds, he was probably stuffed from all the daytime feeding. Try again to-morrow, in the morning.

A second evening meal at the karaoke restaurant. Loud and intrusive, we have to come back to the resort for the checklist.  
The resort is very pleasantly situated in wooded, shrubbed and flowered grounds. They farm organically on the premises - we had a bunch of crinkly lettuce included in our lunch box. It should have been breakfast !
All the following are Pam's photos.
Our bungalow

 The Greenhouse

 The Grounds

 

Photo Feast

Friday February 17

Up at 5.00 a.m. for a 6.00 departure - packed bags outside by 5.50. Neil and Choom (driver) are very good about carrying and packing luggage. We've enjoyed being here at the Malee Nature Lovers Bungalows, a spacious suite of rooms, comfy beds and good food. Pam will not miss the very loud frog  all night chorus outside her bedroom

First stop was opposite the Chinese Cemetery to see a Brown-breasted Bulbul. Despite Choom's wandering in front of us - on his phone as usual - frightening off the birds, a pair returned. 

Doi Khang Resort is set in a deep, cup - shaped valley. We needed our fleeces. Negotiating a flight of steep steps up to the restaurant, took me ages. For such short-legged people they have very steep steps. 

Next three photos taken by Pam.

A welcome cup of coffee saw us sitting at a table on the restaurant balcony, overlooking a feeding area which Neil sprinkled with mealworms. 

There was already corn, rice and banana strewn around. The feeding station was below the dining area, a small stream between us and the open grassy area on which two logs had been placed, a wall of ferns at the back. 

Breakfast of fried eggs, sausage and soggy toast became cold as we were all too busy looking at, and photographing, the great birds which appeared.

Black-breasted Thrush male

Female Chestnut-bellied Rockthrush

Oriental Magpie-robin

Grey-sided Thrush

Sooty-headed Bulbul

A Northern Treeshrew spent a little time foraging at the back. 

A photographer annoyed us all. He set up his enormous lens and camera beside us on the balcony, decided that he couldn't see well enough and moved on to the outside, fully exposed to the birds. He then asked Neil if he could set up a hide below us and in the viewing area! Final ignominy was asking the names of the birds - he wasn't wearing any bins either.
When we'd had our fill of the thrushes (never really), we moved about 50 yards to where the stream entered the site via a small rocky waterfall. Within a few mnutes of a local putting down some mealworms, a male White-capped Redstart appeared, fed briefly and departed, never to re-appear. I managed 2 photos, 1 only nearly OK.

Royal Project, the next stop, is a very large celebration of all things agriculture. Set up by the last King's wife to show the people of the area that it was possible to make more money from growing vegetables rather than opium poppies.
An interesting experience... so many guards and security people around as a visit from a member of the royal family was impending. Pen was fed some disinformation. It was the new king's latest woman coming shortly. We drove to the top of the park  where Choom was allowed to drop us off and then park way back. We were also given permission to walk to what looked like a building site, cross a couple of narrow trenches, negotiate a narrow path and then, a short slope, before planting our stools viewing another feeding station. In the middle of nowhere ! Just about enough space for our four lime green stools. The area was dark, surrounded by trees, bamboo and shrubs, with a few logs and stones onto which mealworms and scatter food was placed by Neil. We didn't have to wait long before the first birds appeared.

Female Large Niltava

Male Rufous-bellied Niltava

Male White-tailed Robin

White-rumped Shama

Silver-eared Mesia

 At lunchtime, we re-traced our footsteps, Neil phoned Pen and Choom and we met them in the car parking drop-off area before hastily leaving. Everywhere would be shut when the VIP arrived. 
Eating a very nice meal of Cow Pat in a roadside restaurant, we saw the VIP cars pass. Later, on the evening news, we heard that it was the last King's middle daughter who was visting, the offspring that the public would have liked as their next queen. She is tireless in her support of charity  and in her interest in the state of the people. The son named as King is a womaniser, he has 4 wives already.
The Bees and Neil then did the K21 trail whilst Pam and I sat in the bus, before we were  returned to the hotel . They went on to Fang rice paddies. We are missing so many birds due to our lack of mobility. No quarter given.
We thoroughly enjoyed our photography morning when we saw some good birds. 


 

At 1800 Metres

Thursday February 16

5.30 a.m. departure in a twin cab pick-up driven by 'Uncle'. We'd been warned that the road up the mountain was very rough and a 4 wheel drive was essential. Yes, the road was rough in parts but, nothing much compared with others we have driven e.g the one up to Eldorado in Colombia.

It was a very jolly, if rather cramped, 2 hour drive, J and D in good form despite their lack of sleep.They and Pam squashed into the back bench seat, I was in state beside the driver, knees against the dash and poor Neil was in the open truck with seats, icebox etc.

We couldn't see anything at all, still dark. At first light, Uncle pulled into a wider part of the road, at the foot of a slope. We all set off up the hill, me very reluctantly, my balance was poor this morning - I still have a middle  ear virus infection which affects my balance. So, I stopped.....! They came dashing back down, Uncle had seen a Giant Nuthatch, a really good bird, which then flew to the very top of a dead tree  near the vehicle. I had good views through Neil's scope and then tried some pretty ridiculous photography.

Jubilant, we set off again, negotiating a large herd of cows lying on the track, before reaching the camping ground. This was a small group of lodges situated in an open area surrounded by forest.
Breakfast consisted of two tiny and delicious local, finger bananas and a cheese sandwich.
A distant bare tree contained birds which turned out to be two Spot-winged Grosbeak and a Yellow-naped Woodpecker. All lovely birds. Here's the tree, find the birds !

The Bridges and Neil set off on a woodland walk, Pam and I settling our stools where we could see much of the site. And there we sat, stood, walked and chatted for over two hours, constantly scanning, Pam with her bins, me through my scope (for only the second time in my life, I left my bins in our rooms !), focusing on the Grosbeak Tree and the fruiting one behind the toilet block.
Neil came back with a dead Moon Moth sp. he'd found. Fantastic.

An unwanted entertainment was the arrival of four vehicles, full of young people, their speed enveloping us in a cloud of dust. Luggage and people were disembarked, the cars drove off, the youngsters loading up their rucksacks before setting off to climb the second highest mountain in Thailand.
We added Violet Cuckoo, another Yellow-naped Woodpecker, the total of Spot-winged Grosbeaks rose to 11, a  Bronzed Drongo gleaming in the sun and a  puzzle bird which Neil ID'd as a Flavescent Bulbul. The best birds for me were two Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, squawking stridently as they flew in parallel formation, their long 'rackets' trailing stiffly behind.
When the wanderers returned, lunch happened - egg sandwich and a cuppa - Neil found a Blue Rock Thrush and a Japanese Whiteye was seen by Pam and I - at last. The others saw one before they left. They also had  distant Mrs Hume's Pheasant, a bird never seen again. We were hoping for one on the drive in.
The return drive was interesting in that we actually saw where we'd been, culminating in a view over an extensive plain. We tried, unsuccessfully, for Forktail, seeing two Hoopoes, 2 Black Laughing-Thrush, Barn Swallow and a White-throated Kingfisher. Neil stopped at a supermarket and bought us an icecream or fizzy drink as per request. So welcome. As we dropped in altitude, a temperature when we'd all worn fleeces, changed to hot.
Much laughter. Uncle drove whilst eating an ice-cream which prompted Pam to mention that I disapproved of her eating whilst driving as she is very loudly dismissive of drivers who use their phone whilst driving. Wonderful timing.....Uncle's phone rang, he drove with an ice-cream in one hand and the phone in the other.
Back early enough to-night for an hour's rest before it was  time to join Neil on a Swift watching session from a nearby balcony. 
We saw 3 handsome Black-throated Laughing-thrush, no Tree-swifts, numerous Black-crested Bulbul and a Grey-crowned Warbler. 
Straight to dinner, very nice as usual. A mild chicken curry, stir-fried veg, rice and glass noodles. Lovely Mango and Pineapple for afters.

''Easy'' Day

Wednesday February 15

Our easy day to recover from jetlag and the journey, started with breakfast at 6.00. Well, that was the designated time. The Bridges and Pam and I were the only ones there. Neil overslept and breakfast began at 6.20. Two fried eggs on two small pieces of toast. Plenty and very welcome.

The day began with a 40 metre - and very slow - walk up the road to the Monastery, birding as we went. Pam's photo.

 
It was the first time we got left behind. We were busy looking at everything - before realising that the other members of the party were way up the road and we'd missed some birds being named. Highlights were : Taiga Flycatcher, Brown Shrike, Light Blue Flycatcher and a White-rumped Shama. (The following was added on Thursday). 
An hour in the car park was very productive. Three varieties of Green Pigeon, Yellow-naped Woodpecker and so many Butterflies. Pam and I spent a considerable time trying to photograph the latter whilst Neil took Dave and Jacquie up the 500 steps to the Temple. I was advised to stay in the car park and was happy to do so.

Entry gate to the temple steps

Spotted Chocolate Soldier

A very small blue butterfly - closed most of the time. Prosotas sp

Same blue butterfly, wings open - I caught it as it landed.

???

Time dragged a bit as bird activity was low, the insects kept us going. As did two Crested Serpent-eagles, gaining height high above the trees on the hillside. We also managed to see the Blue-bearded Bee-eater we'd missed earlier.

 A splendid looking motorbike, looking and sounding worthy of being a Harley, was not. We couldn't read the letters on the side.
Back to the resort, where we enjoyed the butterflies and birds on the flowering shrubs beside the dining area before - and whilst -  eating a sandwich lunch.  

Black-crested Bulbul

We then drove to a rice paddy area. A short walk for Pam and I, to a shaded area overlooking a paddy, where we set up our stools. The others then went off on a longish walk around the paddyfields.

We saw Little, Cattle and Intermediate Egrets,  Chinese Pond Heron and a White-breasted Waterhen. Wire-tailed and Striated Swallows hawked a distant paddy, which held several workers. The latter's movement must have disturbed the insects for them. The herons were very active, frequently changing paddies. One Pond Heron appeared to land on top of a White-breasted Waterhen, which then legged it into the open for us before disappearing again. When Neil, J and D returned, Neil had a brief glimpse of it before it disappeared . Typical Waterhen. Choom, our driver, did not help by walking out into the paddy in front of us. A Thai of very little brain.
Another stop, up the hill from our resort, in search of an Eagle Owl. Beckoned by Neil and the Bees who had just seen it, Pam and I made our way across a dry ditch , immediately seeing the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl in flight and then, perched on top of a bare tree. Excellent. The bird hadn't been seen for three weeks........
It was four very tired, sleep-deprived, jet-lagged Brits who returned late to the resort. A good meal and then the log made it even later.

Shattered

Tuesday February 14

The journey out was longer than necessary in that we had a 5 hour wait at Schipol for our connecting flight to Bangkok. I also had an interesting experience at Bangkok airport transferring for the flight to Chiang Mai. I had a non English speaking porter who wheeled me, unnecessarily,  via the baggage reclaim. Poor Pam had an extended walk. He then parked me at a locked door overlooking the airport before disappearing. Pam had been separated by this time, no room in the lift. He came back and asked for money.......Pam had it,  left me again to watch Pam walk out to the transfer bus and, the bus leave for the plane. What was happening? 
Another porter appeared, wheeling me some distance to a cherry picker where I was put onto a ramp which slowly revved its way to the truck bed. The truck drove very slowly and noisily to the rear door of the plane before depositing me to make my entrance via the food loading door.  The centre of attention. I hated that.
On arrival at Chiang Mai, our luggage was already on the belt, always a relief, a smiling Neil and Pen waiting for us in the arrivals hall. Choom, the minibus driver, was waiting in a queue, we were soon packed and aboard. My first experience of the high first step into the van, no step as requested and nothing to haul myself in by.

21.10 Thai time, time for bed after a very long 36 hours. Three flights, little sleep and a little birding from our 3 night stay, Malee Nature Lovers Bungalows, Cheng Dao, north of Chiang Mai. Malee is Pen's sister. Our two bedroom bungalow looks very comfortable, we both have double beds. The rooms are set in lovely gardens with small water features, shrubs, trees, and flowers, including orchids.

There were a few birds whizzing around the bungalows, I photographed one, a Black-crested Bulbul,  from the dining area, where we sat for a drink.

Stripe-throated Bulbuls also present.

There were also several lovely butterflies in nearby flowering shrubs. They proved to be a photographic and enjoyable challenge. Some are still to be named.

The Clipper

We went out for a very nice Thai meal and have newly returned for listing and bed. 

6.a.m. start in the morning...... 

More detail will have to wait.